The lake of tears

Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy Lack, in Banon district, Battambang procince, is now a popular tourist resort, although it still evokes traumatic memories for many older people.

The striking landscape is both beautiful and productive- wooded hills ring the site, shielding visitors from the worst of the rainy season’s deluges, though not from the insistent vendors who accost visitors upon arrival.

Visitors can swim and bathe in the cool, still waters, although the dark depths at the lake’s center are a reminder of the lives lost here during the Pol Pot regime (1975-79).

Mom Krath, Deputy Head of the Battambang provincial culture Department, explained today’s reservoir is the result of a dam constructed by Pol Pot’s forces, who forced thousands of starving people to toil for four years with no modern equipment and little food. Countless thousands died in the struggle to complete the 6 km long and 1.9km wide cubic meters of water, now an invaluable resource for local communities, Krath said.

“[Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy] lake irrigates rice fields covering thirteen thousand-five-hundred hectares in three districts: Banon, Battambang and Thmar Kol. In rainy season, the lake fills up and supplies water for farmers to grow rice in the city season,” he explained.

Useful and pleasant though the lake though the lake may be, the benefits of Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy came at a high human cost. Stranding at the water’s edge Savuth, 52, gazes wistfully across the water.

“This is not the place to enjoy swimming,” said the US resident, his voice trembling. “It makes me cry because this lake was made by Cambodian people including me. I worked so hard here; my knees were bigger than my head because I was starving and my wife died here because of an illness she got through overwork.”

“I do not want to swim, I merely want to see this bitter place,” Savuth continued ater a long pause. “Now it has become a tourism resort, but I am happy I am here because I can remember everything I went through. I don’t want to forget.”

For most visitors, however, clean water, boat rides, and fishing are the main draw. Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy began to receive visitors in 1999, although there is still no entrance fee. The lake’s cool air and charming environs attracts foreign and domestic tourists alike.

Rottana, a food vendor, said, whatever the reason for their visit, tourists come every day although “on Saturday and Sunday there are a lot. Some come to swim or to eat something with their family. Some want to remember their time during the Pol Pot regime when they were working here. Most of [the ex-Pol Pot regime laborers] now live in the USA, France, and Australia. It is comfortable here even in the dry season because the authorities keep water here for the rice farmers.”

Mom Krath said Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy is one of the most important areas in Battambang province, providing livelihoods for many local redidents.

“It has every clean and clean water for swimming and fresh food,” he said. “Locals can make money from tourism as people like to take a rest and to get some fresh air here.”

“The name ‘Kamping Puoy’ comes from a nearby mountain, though it is also a kind of vegetable which grow in rice fields here. The Kamping Puoy vegetable is very important because it gives the poor people income. Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy Lake gives water to farm as well.”

Ang Teuk Maping Puoy has another local delicacy in addition to the eponymous vegetable- Trey Damrey (elephant fish). This peculiar fish is a delicacy common around Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy and is popular with locals, although the more superstitious still not partake, believing the fish to be the reincarnation of a spurred wife.

“I come here because I want to swim, take a boat to pick lotus in the middle of the lake, to fish and to eat fresh food like fish and chicken,” said Nitha, a Battambang resident with a fresh lotus dangling from one hand. “I enjoy a break with my friends after I study hard for a whole week. I especially like to see the beautiful sunset over the lake.”

Whether relaxing or painful, Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy is undeniably a beautiful location, as well as a significant symbol of a nation on the mend.

Getting there: Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy is Ta Ngen village, Ta Kream commune, Banon district, Battambang province. There are two ways to reach Ang Teuk Kamping Puoy, the first by NH10 from Battambang town to Pailin. Visitors should turn right when near Krapeu mountain around 35km from Battambang, then go straight. A better route is off NH5. Turn left at the Chrey commune police station about 20km from Battambang tow.